1. Picking Up from Hotel near Takeshiba Passenger Terminal

Gen was staying at the hotel adjacent to the pier for Ogasawara-maru. Funny that  the road I was driving was the same road I drive on Sundays to go to my church near Tokyo Tower. I now realized how easy it is to access to the Port of Tokyo.

As I got there earlier, I looked around for a good scenery. Takeshiba is next to Hamarikyu Garden which provides this gorgeous waterfront view.

2. Fly Fishing at Fish On! Ozenji

We have picked up our breakfast in Roppongi, got on Metropolitan Expressway off Shibuya, then got off Tomei Expressway at Kawasaki. We arrived at Fish On! Ozenji around 8:30.

Gen had practice casting fly tackle when he was little and quickly picking up the basic of casting to form good loop from the beginning.

As soon as agreeable cast is formed, Gen caught a trout. I realized I forgot to bring net or tell him how to land the fish. He went all the way to catching leader then fish broke away. Completely my fault… 

Condition of fish was exceptionally difficult. We had only few strikes and had to wait for hours for another strike. Just before our ticket expired, Gen managed to catch his first fish on fly. By that time, he had enough rounds of fly casting and became really good at comfortably casting 15m range on 5/6wt fly line.

3. Branching of Tokyo Fly Fishing & Country Club

Gen caught one fish and have solid basic casting. Mission accomplished and I gave Gen my 5wt tackle as a gift so that he can continue to practice and enjoy fly fishing on the island. In return, he will report what fish are available there.

It’s truly amazing that we now have this friendship being in the same Tokyo 900km apart. Let’s see what we hear from him!

On a side, it was great experience of sociology. I have been touched by stories of the early settlers, Anglicanism, the war, modern life of islanders, and travelers lime myself. Only thing I regret is not about bonefihs, but I should have come to Ogasawara Archipelago long time ago.

Now, let’s make overview on what it’s like from Port Futami to Port Takeshiba in the metropolis.

1. Port Futami, Chichi Island, Tokyo

Beginning of 25 hour journey on ferry. Last minute chance to enjoy the hospitality of islanders and sighting of marine animals. I have sighted hummerhead shark along the coast.

2. From Ogasawara Archipelago to Izu Archipelago

There is a huge void between archipelagos of Ogasawara and Izu. There is no mobile signal over hours. Truly in the middle of Pacific with deep blue ocean.

3. Izu Archipelago

You can get good signal on mobile when the ferry is passing by Hachijo Island. Then here and there as you approach closer to any of the chain of islands. There is Black Current flowing across the archipelago which sometimes causes quite a roll.

4. Sagami Gulf

Once the ferry reaches the gulf, then you receive mobile signal at ease from either Boso Peninsula in Chiba then Miura Peninsula in Kanagawa.

5. Tokyo Bay

Colour of water changes from blue to green, then green to brown as the ferry gets closer back to the metropolis. 4G network? No problem at all. I actually managed to do a short conference call with my colleagues.

6. Port of Tokyo: Takeshiba Passenger Ship Terminal, Minato-ku, Tokyo

Then back to the metropolis. Terminal is only minutes walk away from the choice of three train stations: Takeshiba, Hamamatsu-cho, and Daimon.

This concludes my 13 day journey to Ogasawara Archipelago. Now I am working on my little project to increase the amount of information for fly fishing on the island. In time, I will return for more productive fishing.

> Go back to Day 1

1. Scouting on Suzaki

At the very first minute I got to the youth hostel on Chichi Island, a visiting diver showed me a photograph of GT he caught that morning on spearfishing. He recommended me to try Suzaki where he spotted many amberjack. So, I went to Suzaki for the first game of the morning, but only fish chasing fly was good size pacific drummer. It seems that fish has more aggressiveness on this island, but there was not sign of amberjack or predator feeding on surface.

2. Yatsuse River

My main concern was to see what sort of fish inhabits the fresh/brackish water of this island. There was few prospect rivers, but I went to Yatsuse River to check out tilapia and other fish.

Very first spot where I took off from my motorbike, I sighted a pair of rock fagtail speeding upstream. Didn’t have enough time to prepare my tackle. Besides, I only brought my 9wt with tropical floating line on, which wouldn’t deliver anything carefully to wary fish in skinny water.

Then I began fishing for Nile tilapias who were plentiful throughout the river. But heavy floating line wasn’t exactly what fish would like, so I had to end up scaling down the size of fly to #18 maggot fly. Tilapias are fish with great amount of curiosity, but they won’t like the impact created by very thick line. I caught few of them and I moved on.

3. Estuary of Yatsue River

I saw schools and schools of tilapia and then mullet in brackish water in the estuary. This could be a good spot for baby size trevally who adopt to brackish water.

I had to finish before 8:30am before moving back to the town, so I pushed on walking through beautiful path towards sea.

4. Final Stop of the Journey: Kominato Beach

Then… an eyeopener. I’m afraid my photography cannot tell this beauty. White sandy beach with bonin blue ocean was waiting at the very end of this journey.

Unfortunately, there was no sign of fish and my time was up. Thus I concluded the fishing part of this journey. Too bad that water was colder than usual season, but I have seen a great potential of Ogasawara for light game fishing and witnessed its capacity for big game as well.

5. St. George’s on Chichi Island

By the time I got to the beach, it was already late past 8:40am. I jet back to the lodge for making departure arrangement and washed up quickly to attend Sunday Service on the only church on Ogasawara Archipelago: St. George’s (Anglican-Episcopal).

This church was originally consecrated in 1909 by the Anglican Churches of Japan and England and at that time it was designed by Josiah Conder, an famous architect hired from London on variety of modern western buildings in Japan. The first rector was Joseph Gonzales whose grand father migrated from Hawaii on British whaling vessel and whose descendant Reverend Isaac Gonzales-Ogasawara now leads this church for open door to all christian denominations.

St. George’s was burnt down during the WWII and consecrated in 1968 by the Bishop of Hawaii. As I have attended the communion, it was probably the busiest Anglican church I have seen anywhere in the world (so far) for having people working on Sundays rushing in and out for prayer and going back to their business.

This journey was also meant for me to make a bit of pilgrimage, because St. George happens to be in the same Diocese of Tokyo as my parish church yet they are 900km apart! I wanted to ask so many questions, but I realized I haven’t done any service to deserve them. Instead, I listened to the reverend whose stories were truly revealing.

I made prayers of thanks to the people of the islands and to the forefathers from the variety of Europe, America, and Japan who happened to come to this archipelago then worked together in peace to build the community living vibrantly today. Something metropolitans can learn a lot from the islanders.

6. Departure from Chichi Island

Ogasawara-maru departed Port Futami on Chichi Island around 14:00 and there were crazy number of boats and jetskies following the vessel to send warm good bye. What a amazing hospitality!

Result of Fly Fishing

- Nile tilapia x 3

> See Day 13

However, there had been no surface activity where I could reach by casting from bank. After a while, Gen-san came around waithing for Takashi-san to come back on his boat from all night fishing for squid. They were geared up for big tuna/amberjack/GT game on lure tackle. It was very kind they asked me, “we are going for big game, would you like to come along?”. Well…I was already on their boat the minute I saw their tackle.

1. Big Game from Boat

What I know from my experience is that fish going for lure are in different mode as fish going for bait or fly. So, I was ready to be a happy observer. Gen and Takashi began casting only outside of the port and I thought they were joking or practicing.

Then I found out that I was completely wrong about my perception of this island. This reef on this video was where dogtooth tuna went for Takashi’s jerkbait.

And this is the same location from boat where Takashi was fighting 10kg tuna.

I couldn’t believe I was seeing this on my very last day!

2. Bit of Trial

Big fish going for big lure quickly discouraged me to try my puny crease fly on two-hand fly rod, but the chaps were really kind to let me try on a bow deck. This photo looks like that I’m fighting some fish, but I was only picking up my fly line going against strong tide!

Result? Of course none. But I took a great joy of being on the same boat catching tuna and passing by whales and dolphins!

3. Leaving Haha Island to Chichi Island

When the boat returned to the port, I had to rush back to pack everything not to miss the afternoon ferry to Chichi Island. Youth hostel on the island was truly wonderful.

And folks of Haha Island simply amazing! Good bye. I will surely return in the future.

> See Day 12

1. Fishing in Port Oki

Very first catch was my all time friend: blue cornetfish. I have been catching this guy throughout my life in Guam, Hawaii, Philippines, Okinawa, and now Ogasawara. It’s peculiar looking fish, but fun to watch the process of hesitation before making final strike on fly or bait.

Then familiar bigeye scad. This fish is much like trout who only chases fly swim in the matching depth except they fight hard til the end.

As I was making constant catch, resident brown booby came down to wait for his share. This funny guy kept looking at me and net back and fourth to communicate his message to me. Unfortunately, slow-style of fly fishing didn’t impress him too much, so he flew away after a while.

Then I moved to the same spot I fished yesterday for queenfish. After careful prepration, fish begin to come out of hiding. None attacked minnow type fly, so I switched to experimental marabou rig. Then I caught white trevally.

It was bit difficult to land this fish for it fought hard at the same time 3 white tip sharks were after him. Then I caught another one. I first mistook this fish for bigeye trevally, but white trevally has this distinct mouth that extends a bit.

Fight with these fish excited all fish in the area including sharks, then one shark snatched my third trevally immediately after it got hooked. Then I added one more fish: pacific drummer.

2. Trail Walking

It got very hot when sun came out full, so I stopped fishing and went off trekking on the trail.

Set of iPod and headphone playing back happy tunes helped me walk through remains of the WWII as they all looked spooky. Imperial Japanese Navy 12cm anti-aircraft gun is not so challenging.

But old barrack with very functional door and dark interior are something rather not happy to walk into. It was quite spacious inside though. Probably worth converting this barrack to a storage for… rum produced on this island?

3. In the Village

Haha Island provided a great collection of herbs and vegetables, so pasta dish has become the main course. Herbs and vegetables used for Italian food are amazing probably due to the warm climate and dry soil. Great parsley, tomato, and red pepper.

Good to have a travelling friends at youth hostel and to have great selections of beer at the local stores, Orion beer of Okinawa meets tasty dried smelt from Hokkaido. Really quality dinner time.

Result of Fly Fishing

- Blue cornetfish x 2
- Bigeye scad x 3
- White trevally x 2
- Pacific drummer x 1

> See Day 11

1. Spot in Port Oki

He and I walked over to the corner in the dock where jetty had a opening underneath to let fish hide and come out freely. There I caught a queenfish of descent size on mikura candy. Catching cruising fish such as queenfish is a really good sign that this spot welcome many species. Gen-san explained to me that this port is the single most efficient place to fish. I strongly agree.

2. Snorkeling the Water of Haha Island

As seeing Gen-san going back to his work, I moved on for a snorkeling tour booked at Club Noah from 9am.

Club Noah is the only diving shop who produces variety of marine nature tours and the one I joined took me out for dolphin/whale watching and snorkeling on uninhabited small islands around Haha Island. Water is still too low around 20°C, so we geared up with wet suits.

No luck meeting any dolphin or whale, but boat took us 2 spots for snorkeling. Clarity of water is simply amazing and unharmed natural beauty awaited underneath the surface.

And I spotted large spangled emperor at both locations. Not as abundant as in Okinawa, but it must be the temperature of water too low for them.

3. In the Village

Later on, young people of village invited me to drink under the banyan tree in the centre of village which is a social place for villagers. Talks, stories, and on and on. Then all the sudden, children were having some excitement. It seemed that there was another visitor to the tree.

Wondering blue sea turtle was trying to nest on the busy beach.

Result of Fly Fishing

- Doubledotted queenfish x 1

> See Day 10

After dishes.

Then drinks (of carbo-free beer thanks to Japan).

And occasionally little fishing with experimental fly pattern.

Pacific drummer has small mouth and does not actively chase fly. But with proper fly pattern imitating piece of fish meat combined with rigging, you can trick him into a bite.

Result of Fly Fishing

- Pacific drummer x 1

> See Day 9

Spent rest of daytime being lazy messing about the village making few friends. Just passing time daydreaming in the beauty of nature was fun enough.

Then I had to remind myself about the “purpose”. I could stretch just a little further into the southern part of island I haven’t tried yet. I geared up with minimum equipment with my music and helmet on.

I rode again to the end of State Route 241. Then I walked down the path to Omoto Beach.

By the time I got there, it was already near sunset. I didn’t look too good a spot and I only found few squids.

But then there was surprise. Too shame that I couldn’t capture that on my camera. Family of humpback whales was passing by with male making impressive jump and dive.

I should have brought a binocular rather than fly rod…

Result of Fly Fishing

- Honeycomb grouper x 2
- Bigeye scad x 2

> See Day 8

1. Jetty at Higashi Harbour

First, I checked the clarity of water which has gone complete crystal clear with plenty of sunlight. I could see the bottom of 5 meters deep. Perfect condition for shallow game. But before that, I had to test the fishing from jetty with 2 patterns I have been developing since I got to the island. I spotted and caught a few good size Japanese barrracudas (Shame I didn’t take the photo for I thought I would come across them easily…). Also, I have experimented my new simple marabou fly tied in drop shot rig to see if that works with non aggressive feeders. Fish got really closed to it, so I had no doubt they will take it if they are turned on in more active feeding mode.

2. Shallow Reef in Higashi Harbour

Then I began scouting shallow reef inside the harbour. Bottom is a mixture of coral, pebble, and sand. I saw few scampi and reef fish chasing them. Perfect dining table for fish coming in on rising tide.

As I was coast trekking from the start to the end of reef, I felt the water is quite warm, but I did not spot any sizable   reef fish including bonefish. Apart from distraction from the WWII vestiges, I kept my attention on water.

This can’t be right. There has to be good size reef fish in the shallow under this circumstances, if I were in Okinawa or Hawaii. Then I found out why.

It has become a camping site for white tip reef sharks. No bother…

3. Re-thinking in Village

As long as sharks are in the shallow, there is no way other large reef fish would come into shallow for competition. So, I’ve decided to drive back on road to the village.

Back at my favorite chill out spot while looking at the road sign showing directions to islands from Guam to Hawaii, I was thinking about being on the wrong island wrong time of year.

Now there is no doubt that my strategy needed to be altered. First thing first, I must find alternative way to have good time. So, I set up beach side tying bench.

After all, it is not good time for shallow sight fishing and I have been lodging in probably the best harbour for cruising fish. In that case, I needed to complete selected fly patterns and rigs, and have good time without fishing.

Starting with setting up temporary dining space backpacker style with refreshment and music.
I was so preoccupied with fishing and nearly missing the island itself. Now I have switched off into relaxation.

To capture what it’s like:

> See Day 7

1. Wild Life in Haha Island

On Haha Island, all residential area is concentrated near Port Oki with population of 700 which leaves the rest of island uninhabited to form wild life sanctuary. Also, the entire archipelago is designated as United Nation’s world heritage. These facts combined limits  where you can go about freely. For instance, any road not labeled for footpath requires a guide to escort you. Coast in the south between Port Oki and Otona Beach are prohibited area for fishing to protect nesting ground for marine species.

2. Trail to Nishiura Beach

Unfortunately, this knowledge came after I consulted with office of tourism on the island in the afternoon, so I went to the trail leading to Nishiura Beach with no hesitation, because I see footpath nicely made there. *You need a guide to go “off trail” in this protected area.

I followed the obvious footpath on my handy GPS device and walked down few difficult spots for about 15 minutes.

Then came across an area used as barracks in the WWII period. You see cookware used by soldiers and machinery of war abondoned all over the place.

As I walked, I saw lots of tunnels and mortars in this area. This place must be coastal outpost for key defense district. Bit spooky to walk through this “graveyard” really…

Then path opened for secret beach.

This is where I just came from. Last few minutes of walk was through heavy vegetation. No wonder guide is required to access this area.

The beach was hosting variety of reef fish. I spotted a school of small baitfish, so I positioned myself to the downwind side of the reef where I would expect predator to corner baitfish. When I cast my streamer big yellow-edged lyretail followed it all the way to the end. Much like pike following lure slowly over long distance. This fish or his kin later began feeding on small baitfish on the surface making large noise that echoed in the entire beach area. These big lyretail must be the king of this hidden beach.

When the blitz ended, sun was rising high and there was no more sign of predatory activity. I caught a small honeycomb grouper then I needed to pack up for new lodge, so I finished fishing then.

3. Back to Port Oki and Wakihama Beach

I discovered that I have just broke little local rule when I got back to the village of Port Oki, so I have given up fishing for the rest of day for nature watch. There is one particularly interesting spot in Port Oki where they constructed white sand beach. This is what it looks like.

Amazing sight, isn’t it? School of white tip sharks gather in spring time for mating in shallow where water is kept warm and food is plenty. There were about hundred or more sleeping, cruising, or chasing baitfish in shallow making fly fishing in shallow bit chilly.

Result for Sighting:

Yellow-edged lyretail x 2
White tip sharks x so many

Result for Fly Fishing:

Honeycomb grouper x 1

> See Day 6